Red Devon in Bangall (Dutchess County, NY)-
Who knew there is a bit of California’s Napa Valley in New York’s Northern Dutchess County? It takes some skillful map reading to find the Red Devon in Bangall, between Millbrook and Pine Plains, but the drive on pleasant country roads ends with a solar paneled, sprawling restaurant/cafe/market landscaped in late spring with beds of flowering red poppies. The Red Devon’s handsome formal dining room, with salmon colored walls, a gray slate fireplace and photographs of local agricultural scenes is a refined dining environment. The menu lists nearly 20 local farms from which the wide-ranging appetizers and entrees are sourced. Local chicken, pork and lamb dishes were graced by seasonal ramps, kale, spinach, asparagus, and wild-foraged mushrooms all expertly prepared. Especially delicious was a lamb ragout with feathery light gnocchi that was comfort food of the highest order. The option of ordering a small plate of handmade tagliatelle, with seasonal vegetables of asparagus, wild foraged mushrooms and snap peas, made dining in this high end restaurant appealing to a diner on a budget. A pork porterhouse chop, cooked medium-well as requested, nonetheless was succulent and well-seasoned. A simple dessert of pistachio ice cream, made with cream from the local dairy, Hudson Valley Fresh, was a perfect combination of sweet and salty to end a memorable meal (FB 5/23/10). [Red Devon, 108 Hunns Lake Rd., Bangall, NY, 845.868.3175, Breakfast & Lunch (Cafe): Thurs-Sun, Mon 8:00AM-3:00PM; Dinner (Restaurant): Thur-Sat 6:00PM-9:30PM, Sun 5:00PM-8:00PM; Brunch (Restaurant): Sun 12:00PM-3:00PM www.reddevon.com]