Archive for April 2011

Dirt, The Erosion of Civilizations by David R. Montgomery

The sky may not be falling, but the earth’s soil is eroding faster than it is being replaced and modern civilization’s future is endangered.  Our earth in David R. Montgomery’s words “is an oasis in space rendered hospitable by a thin skin of soil that, once lost, rebuilds only over geologic time.”  Mr. Montgomery makes a persuasive case in Dirt, The Erosion of Civilizations (University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, California, 2007) that the twin problems of soil degradation and accelerated erosion (with an estimated twenty-four billion tons of soil lost annually around the world) eventually determine the fate of civilizations, and that humanity’s well-being requires “prioritizing society’s long-term interest in soil stewardship.”  Since 1945, moderate to extreme soil erosion has degraded 1.2 billion hectares of agricultural land- an area the size of China and India combined: “One estimate places the amount of agricultural land used and abandoned in the past fifty years as equal to the amount farmed today.”  Who can deny Mr. Montgomery’s central point that when people run low on food, “the thin veneer of behavior that defines culture and even civilization itself is at risk?”

Mr. Montgomery is a geomorphologist, who studies how landscapes change through geologic time, and focuses on how the interplay among climate, vegetation, geology and topography influences soil composition and thickness.  But although he does not call himself one, he is also a historian, who has provided an extraordinary and readable history of world agriculture and of American agriculture in particular.  Mr. Montgomery has the ability to convey his scientific knowledge in a readable and understandable way, and Dirt, The Erosion of Civilizations deserves a wide readership.  Like Michael Pollan in The Omnivore’s Dilemma (The Penguin Press, New York, New York, 2006), Mr. Montgomery also concludes that industrial agricultural practices, which require cheap fertilizers and cheap oil to make them, cannot be sustained and there are disastrous consequences ahead.  Like Mr. Pollan and Maria Rodale, in her passionate Organic Manifesto, Mr. Montgomery advocates for a system of food production that rejects the “persistent agricultural myth” that large mechanized farms are more efficient than small traditional farms that “treat soil as a locally adapted biological system rather than a chemical system.”  In Mr. Montgomery’s convincing view, using biology and ecology, rather than chemistry and genetics, can be the basis for the “unglobalization of agriculture” which will become increasingly attractive and cost effective as the oil runs out later this century.  Agriculture consumes 30% of our oil use, and David Montgomery predicts that petroleum-based industrial agriculture will end sometime later this century as oil and natural gas become too valuable to use for fertilizer production.

Mr. Montgomery bravely addresses the emotional and contentious issue  that the world’s population has reached an unsustainable level, and he details uncomfortable facts in a cool-headed and scientific way.  In Mr. Montgomery’s words, “Agriculture  can be understood as a natural behavioral response to increasing population”  from the earliest known semi-agricultural people, who lived on the slopes of the Zagros mountains between Iraq and Iran about thirteen thousand to eleven thousand years ago (about 11,000 to 9000 BC), to modern times.  Merely hunting gazelles and gathering wild cereals and legumes could not sustain the growing human population of the ancient lands of the Middle East.  In Mr. Montgomery’s words, people were forced to adopt “the labor-intensive business of agriculture.”  But when the maximum food production achievable by agriculture is reached, and the population cannot be fed, there are dire behavioral responses and civilization collapses.  In the year 20,000 BC, when the glaciers melted in the most recent glaciation, the earth’s population has been estimated by scientists at 4 million humans.  Scientists have further estimated that the earth’s population grew 1 million over the next 5,000 years to reach 5 million in 15,000 BC.  Fifteen thousand years later, by the time of Christ, the earth’s population is estimated by scientists at 200 million, with the peak population in pre-Biblical Mesopotamia estimated at 20 million.  Two thousand years later, in our time, the earth’s population is 6.5 billion humans.

Mr. Montgomery notes that in the world’s most intensively farmed regions, to feed one human requires .2 hectares per person.  Presuming that it would be possible to increase the average global agricultural production to this level of .2 hectares per person, the earth could support 7.5 billion people.  However, Montgomery warns that given the continued loss of productive cropland, it is estimated that by 2050, the amount of available farmable land will drop to less than 0.1 hectares per person.  Norman Borlaug, the Nobel Prize winning “green revolution” pioneer, has opined that the earth could support 10 billion humans with the proviso that additional “major advances in agricultural technology” are required.  However, these “optimistic” views, although exceeded by “the National Conference of Catholic Bishops apparent belief that the world could comfortably support forty billion people,” must be compared to the views of “Stanford University biologists Paul and Anne Ehrlich who maintain that we have already passed the carrying capacity of the planet, which they put at about three billion people.”  Ted Turner’s dyspeptic view “that four hundred million would be plenty” is a head-spinning fantasy.

In Dirt, The Erosion of Civiizations, David Montgomery has provided a stunning parade of examples of the collapse of various societies when the pressure of a growing population and an inadequate food supply collide.  As early as 6000 BC, whole villages in what is now central Jordan were abandoned as a direct result of top soil erosion and degraded soil fertility caused by intensive agriculture and goat grazing which undermined crop yields to feed an increasing population. Examples of Iceland and Haiti show that no region of the earth is untouched from the devastation resulting from loss of top soil and degraded soil fertility.  Once Iceland’s slopes were deforested, strong winds blowing off its central ice caps helped stripped the soil from half the once forested area of the island, so that “soils built up over thousands of years disappeared within centuries.”  According to Montgomery, the central part of Iceland “where the soil has been completely removed is now a barren desert where nothing grows and no one lives.”   In Haiti, which means “green island” in Arawak, the native language, “cultivation on steep slopes converted about a third of the country to bare rocky slopes incapable of supporting agriculture.”

Montgomery’s detailed descriptions of the collapse of more ancient civilizations are fascinating.  Maya civilization in the Yucatan and Central America (Mesoamerica) grew from a population of less than 200,000 in 600 BC to more than a million by 300 AD, and at its peak in 800 AD, the population reached “at least three million and perhaps as many as six million.”  Montgomery describes the way Maya agriculture exhausted its soil:  The tropical soils of the Yucatan peninsula and Central America are thin and easily eroded, and under sustained cultivation, the initial high productivity after clearing and burning the cleared forest (which had fertilized the soil and guaranteed good crops for a few years),  rapidly declined.   The lack of domesticated animals in Maya agriculture meant no manure for replenishing the depleted soils and compounded the problem.  Maya civilization collapsed about 900 AD when food production no longer could sustain the population, with some Maya cities abandoned with buildings half finished.  Archeologist Richard Hansen, quoted in “Lost City of the Maya” by Chip Brown (with wonderful accompanying photographs by the National Geographic photographer, Christian Ziegler), Smithsonian Magazine, May 2011 [www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/El-Mirador-the-Lost-City-of-the-Maya.html], echoes Mr. Montgomery’s analysis.  Mr. Hansen, an American archaeologist, who is leading efforts to solve the mystery of the lost Maya city of El Mirador, a 2,500-year old metropolis that is “more impressive and even older than the better-known Tikal” believes that what “caused the wholesale collapse of the society sometime between A.D. 100 and 200” was the runoff of clay into the marshes (with their nutrient-rich mud) after the massive deforestation of the surrounding area- deforestation caused by a demand for firewood the Maya needed to make lime plaster (which they used to plaster “everything, from major temples like La Danta to their plazas and house floors, which over time got thicker and thicker, an extravagance Hansen attributed to the temptations of ‘conspicuous consumption”’).

Montgomery’s account of the unraveling of the Roman Empire from the stress of feeding a growing population from deteriorating lands is extraordinary in its historical details.  Tertullian, the first Christian to write in Latin, wrote in 200 AD: “We overcrowd the world. The elements can hardly support us.  Our wants increase and our demands are keener, while Nature cannot bear us.”  To some degree, the need to secure food launched Roman colonialism: Rome conquered the North African coast between Carthage (Libya) and Egypt for its ability to produce grain with “two hundred thousand tons of grain a year shipped from Egypt and North Africa to feed the million people in Rome.”  Similarly, in Montgomery’s view, European colonialism was rooted in its perennial hunger problem, which it solved “by importing food and exporting people,” with 50,000,000 leaving Europe from 1820 to 1930.

Still, David Montgomery has not entitled his remarkable book, Famine, The Erosion of Civilization for a reason.  Although he has sketched a dire future of an inadequate food supply for a growing world population if current trends continue (and also discusses in detail famines in China in 1920-21 when 500,000 died from hunger and 20,000,000 were reduced to eating anything that grew as well as the 1845 Irish famine), his ultimate focus is on “good old dirt.”   Mr. Montgomery becomes almost rhapsodic in his view of dirt “as a valuable inheritance” which is a “strategic resource” as important as oil.  (With the United States Department of Agriculture [USDA] estimating that it takes 500 years to produce an inch of topsoil, Mr. Montgomery’s view of soil as a strategic resource is entirely justified.)  Dig into rich, fresh earth, and Mr. Montgomery notes you can feel the life in it, a whole world of life eating life, a biological orgy recycling the dead back into new life, an enticing and wholesome aroma- the smell of life itself.  He observes that his own focus on dirt was shared by Charles Darwin whose last book explored how the “the ground beneath our feet cycles through the bodies of worms,” which transform dirt and rotting leaves into soil.  Darwin was fascinated by his discovery of Roman tiles buried two and one-half feet in the English countryside, and he collected and weighed earthworm castings ultimately concluding that new topsoil built up a few inches every century thanks to the efforts of countless worms.  Darwin’s research revealed that “400 pounds of worms lived in an acre of good English soil.”  Like Darwin, Mr. Montgomery’s deep appreciation of worms and soil leads naturally to his thorough analysis of agricultural practices which help to remedy the loss of billions of tons of soil annually and undergirds his ultimate focus on the earth’s soil rather than human failure and famine.  In a single, brilliant paragraph, Mr. Montgomery articulates the argument for non-industrial agriculture, an agroecology based on biology and ecology rather than chemistry and genetics.  He notes that “tilling the soil can kill large soil-dwelling organisms, and reduce the number of earthworms.  Pesticides can exterminate microbes and microfauna.  Conventional short-rotation, single-crop farming can reduce the diversity, abundance, and activity of beneficial soil fauna, and indirectly encourage proliferation of soilborne viruses, pathogens, and crop-eating insects.”  David Montgomery makes a strong case that  “generally, so-called alternative agricultural systems tend to better retain soil-dwelling organisms that enhance soil fertility.”  The growing adoption of alternative practices such as (i) terracing steep fields to reduce soil erosion, (ii) no-till methods which minimizes direct disturbance of the soil, (iii) leaving crop residue at the ground surface to serve as mulch helping to retain moisture and retard erosion (instead of plowing it under), and (iv) interplanting crops to provide more complete ground cover and retard erosion, all of which Mr. Montgomery emphasizes are not “new ideas”,  lends hope for the future of the Earth’s soil.

As a footnote, Mr. Montgomery’s analysis of the “salt problem” from increased irrigation, with a special focus on California’s Central Valley’s “salty ground unlike anything back East,” deserves highlighting.  Salty soil increased as irrigation spread across the golden state of California:  “Every new irrigated field raised the local groundwater table a little more.  Each summer, evaporation pumped more salt up into the soil.”  The salt in California’s Central Valley was not “seawater salt” but salt in the soil which weathered out of rocks, dissolving in soil water, and then reprecipatating where the water evaporated.  Christopher Henke in his Cultivating Science, Harvesting Power also addresses the problem of salty soil in his analysis of agriculture in California’s Salinas Valley.  In the case of the Salinas Valley, sea water is intruding into ground water along the Monterey Bay coast with the increased pumping of ground water for crop irrigation.  Mr. Montgomery, in an earlier section of his book, describes how pre-Biblical Mesopotamia, with its estimated peak population of 20 million, collapsed from the lack of food to feed its people, which resulted from the build-up of salt in its agricultural land from the “sustained irrigation” which generated “enough salt to eventually poison crops.”

Americans have a unique and fortunate place from which to lead the world into a future of sustainable food production.   According to Mr. Montgomery, there are three great regions on our planet Earth “where thick blankets of easily farmed silt can sustain intensive farming even once the original soil disappears.”  The wide expanses of the world’s loess belts in the American (U.S. and Canada) plains, Europe, and northern China are the Earth’s breadbaskets, and we Americans are truly blessed to be living in one of the world’s loess belts.  Most of the rest of the planet has “thin soils over rock” which must be carefully nurtured by the practice of intensive organic agriculture which rebuilds the thin soils.  A hopeful sign is that thin soils have been rebuilt : Mr. Montgomery uses the modern evolution of agriculture in Cuba as proof of this potential to produce sufficient food in places not blessed with the richness of America’s soils.  With the collapse of the Soviet Union, Cuba’s fertilizer and pesticide imports fell by 80 percent and oil imports fell by 50 percent, and according to Montgomery, Cuban agriculture needed to double food production using half the inputs required by conventional agriculture.  Industrialized state farms were privatized, creating a network of small farms, and through necessity, the new small private farms and thousands of tiny urban market gardens became organic.  By 2004, Havana’s formerly vacant lots produced nearly the city’s entire vegetable supply.  Agricultural self-sufficiency by labor-intensive agriculture was achievable by Cuba, a developing country not part of the world’s loess belts (although Montgomery notes that meat and dairy remain in short supply in Cuba).

David R. Montgomery’s Dirt, The Erosion of Civilizations is a warning of a future that must be forestalled.  He honors the memory of Albert Schweitzer by challenging the philosopher’s bleak assessment, quoted by Rachel Carson in her dedication of Silent Spring that “Man has lost the capacity to foresee and forestall.  He will end by destroying the earth.”  Like Rachel Carson, David Montgomery has not lost the capacity to foresee, which gives some hope that Schweitzer’s apocalyptic conclusion may yet be forestalled.  May the ethic of land stewardship thrive and protect Mother Earth’s soil (FW Barrie, 4/28/11). [http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520258068]

Lively Lunchtime Dining at Café Mae Mae in Lower Manhattan’s SoHo

Café Mae Mae in “olde New York” on Vandam Street off Hudson Street, occupies the street level space of an old warehouse building on the western edge of New York City’s popular SoHo district.  Named in memory of the owner’s daughter, Café Mae Mae with its commitment to local and seasonal foods, honors her memory by its integrity in caring about the source of the food it serves.

The Soho café is part of a group of cafés operated by the popular Manhattan caterer, Great Performances [www.greatperformances.com/], which owns Katchkie Farm [http://katchkiefarm.com], a 60-acre organic farm in Kinderhook (Columbia County, NY).  The other cafés operated by Great Performances provide local and seasonal food in a variety of museum and stylish settings, including the Wave Hill Café (an English country-style mansion in Riverdale, Bronx with beautiful public gardens overlooking the Hudson River) [www.wavehill.org/], Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM) Café [www.bam.org/], El Café at El Museo del Barrio on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue overlooking the Central Park Conservatory [www.elmuseo.org], Atrium Café at the Studio Museum in Harlem [www.studiomuseum.org/], the Catherine K. Café at mid-town Manhattan’s International Center of Photography (ICP) [www.icp.org/], Sotheby’s Terrace Café at the world renowned Manhattan auction house on Manhattan’s Eastside, and Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola at Frederick P. Rose Hall (the home of jazz at Lincoln Center).

In early spring, the upstate New York farm’s bounty used at the various cafés is limited, but with the use of greenhouses, the farm’s website indicates that in early April it is harvesting spinach, salad mix, microgreens (micro kale, arugula, red choi, red komatsuna, and mizuna) and still has in storage a variety of root vegetables: turnips, rutabagas and celeriac (celery root).  Katchkie Farm’s year-round operation is commendable and reflects the growing commitment of an increasing number of local growers in colder climates to provide a reliable source of healthy, sustainable food beyond the traditional growing season.  Katchkie Farm also deserves kudos for its Sylvia Center, an educational non-profit located on the farm that introduces children to healthy, sustainable food through farm visits and cooking workshops [http://katchkiefarm.com/the-sylvia-center/overview/].  The farm with the Salvation Army has hosted children from New York City shelters who participate in gardening and cooking workshops.

With the feel of a neighborhood café and wine bar, Café Mae Mae has limited hours of operation: lunch is served from 11:30AM-4:00PM on Mondays through Friday only, and dinner is served only once a week on Wednesday from 5:00PM-10:00PM.  Its Wednesday dinners are dedicated to “Slow food, old ways and lasting friendships” and includes live jazz from 7:00PM-9:00PM. Despite these limited hours of operation, Café Mae Mae is a unique spot in the hustle-bustle of the metropolis and worth seeking out for a unique weekday meal.

The café, with a life-size fiberglass llama painted with swirls of bright colors, standing guard on the sidewalk just outside the entryway, is also a festive environment for a delicious and healthy lunch with a focus on local food sources.  The cozy dining area, with approximately 12 tables, also offers seating along a bar-like counter that runs along the back of the dining area.  Brightly painted magenta walls set a warm tone for the lively café scene.  A word of caution though is in order given the limited seating: when my dining companion and I arrived for lunch at noon on a Friday, the café quickly filled up.  In contrast, the scene was different when I arrived for lunch on Thursday at 2:30PM, with a roomy window table, the best spot in the house, available for solo dining.  My advice is to arrive for a late lunch to truly enjoy this unique café.

The lunch menu offers a grilled flatbread of the day ($10.00), which during the week when I enjoyed two lunches at the café consisted of lightly grilled flatbread topped with Coach Farm (Pine Plains, Dutchess County, NY) [www.coachfarm.com] goat cheese, tomato, eggplant and oregano.  An irresistible choice, it was so delicious that on my second visit the following day, my dining companion and I shared this satisfying blending of rich, fresh flavors.  My other selections for my late, solo Thursday lunch at the café was a wonderful plate of lightly grilled vegetables ($5.00), consisting of a generous helping of baby carrots, and slices of eggplant, yellow squash, and zucchini squash, prepared to a perfect al-dente which accented their sweet flavors.  With a plate of delicious deviled eggs ($3.00) and slices of baguette, my solo lunch at Café Mae Mae confirmed the café as a wise choice for lunch the following day with a friend, who I had not seen in a number of years.

The café’s menu is available on-line, and my friend’s lunch choice of pasture-raised chicken pot pie ($13.00) had been made a couple of weeks earlier.  This comfort food did not disappoint, with its flaky crust, chunks of white meat chicken and root vegetables in a creamy sauce and was complemented perfectly by a traditional Caesar salad ($6.00) with its romaine lettuce from Katchkie Farm and a creamy Caesar dressing.  In addition to sharing another order of the grilled flatbread of the day, which was the same delicious blending of Coach Farm goat cheese, tomatoes, eggplant and oregano, I was pleased with my selection of stuffed peppers, with radish and fava bean salad and smoked paprika and a helping of creamy, whipped turnips ($12.00).  The lightly grilled green peppers were stuffed with a delicious mix of Cayuga Pure Organics grains, grown near Ithaca in upstate New York’s Finger Lakes region.  The chilled radish and fava bean salad was crisp and surprisingly sweet.  Who knew fava beans were so sweet tasting?  The café offers a variety of excellent wines by the glass, and I enjoyed with my lunch a glass of delicious Pino Noir (2009) from Millbrook Vineyards (Millerton, Dutchess County, NY) with its fruity flavor and fresh aromas [www.millbrookwine.com/].  My friend returned the toast to our reunion with a Brooklyn Brewery pilsener [http://www.brooklynbrewery.com/].

Satisfied with our lunch dishes, we passed on dessert though the old-fashioned strawberry short cake, lemon meringue pie, and house-made nutter butter cookies were tempting.  A cup of Kobrick House [www.kobricks.com] coffee (a Manhattan based coffee importer and roaster established in 1920 and which offers a variety of organic and fair-traded coffees) was a perfect ending to the meal.  The café also offers a wide selection of organic and fair-traded teas from Serendipitea [www.serendipitea.com/].  I’ll look forward to enjoying another one of the cafés operated by Great Performances, while visiting one of the hosting museum and cultural centers that have made the wise decision to use a caterer with integrity and heart for their food concessionaire (FW Barrie, 4/18/11).  [Café Mae Mae by Great Performances Caterer, 68 Vandam Street, 212.292.5109, Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30AM-4:00PM, Dinner: Weds 5:00PM-10:00PM, www.greatperformances.com/cafes/mae-mae-cafe]

American Pottery in the British Studio Tradition, an exhibition at The Culinary Institute of America

 

Warren Mackenzie, an American potter [http://warrenmackenziepottery.com/], studied in Great Britain in the years after World War II with Bernard Howell Leach, the father of the British studio tradition of handmade pottery, at the Leach Pottery in St. Ives, Cornwall [http://www.leachpottery.com/].  Until 2006, Mr. Mackenzie maintained a small showroom for his pottery, which he operated on the honor system on his property in Stillwater, Minnesota.  Pottery prices were indicated with stickers and customers deposited payment in a basket.  Sold pieces of his pottery, reflecting a standard of “quiet simplicity and uncomplicated function,” were appropriately wrapped in old newspapers and carried off in paper bags.  This sales model was striking given Mr. Mackenzie’s status as an internationally renowned potter.  Warren Mackenzie always reasonably priced his wares, which often lacked his signature: his conscious reaction to the high prices often associated with collectible art pottery.  Mr. Mackenzie, who taught at the University of Minnesota after studying with Bernard Howell Leach, remains to date a professor emeritus at the university, and his stoneware remains an inspiration for contemporary potters.

An exhibition currently on display until May 26, 2011 (Exhibit Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00AM-5:00PM) at the Tober Exhibition Room, located in the Conrad N. Hilton Library on the Hyde Park campus of The Culinary Institute of America [http://www.ciachef.edu/], honors Mr. Mackenzie and the work of 11 other American potters who pursue their craft in “truth to material and to process,” the standard set by Bernard Howell Leach.  Inspired by the Arts and Craft Movement, Leach’s A Potter’s Book is described in the exhibition as  “a seminal document” for potters.  This small exhibition in Hyde Park, which fills a room located off the atrium entrance of the Hilton Library, is worthy of a visitor’s time and attention, and a perfect complement to the pleasure of a meal at one of the five student-staffed restaurants on The Culinary Institute of America’s (CIA’s) Hyde Park campus in New York’s Hudson Valley.  I know it will prompt me in the future to take a closer look at the tableware used to serve food.

The pottery of Simon Pearce, who maintains a workshop in Windsor, Vermont, catches the eye with its simplicity and beauty. On display are five pieces of his tableware described as “clear crackle glaze on cone 10 stoneware.”  Pearce makes use of machinery in his more industrial workshop to enable a higher production volume.  Nonetheless, his production process makes use of handmade mold prototypes and his inclusion in this exhibition makes sense.

Other potters in the exhibition clearly fall within the British studio tradition of handmade pottery.  The two plates, bowl, and cup and saucer on display from Pottery and Tile of Tiverton, Rhode Island [http://www.roseberrywinn.com/process.html], the pottery workshop of Michael Roseberry and Bruce Winn, are described as “slip-cast porcelain with high fire glaze.”  The flowery design and beautiful jade-green glaze of this pottery make for functional works of art.

The exhibition also includes ceramic platters, which are not functional, but rather a canvas for artistic expression.  Chris Gustin’s [http://www.gustinceramics.com/]  wood-fired stoneware platter, which is nearly two feet in diameter, is an abstract expressionistic work of art with its butterfly shapes of color.  Walter Hall’s [http://www.hartfordartschool.org] ceramic platter with its geometric patterns and irregular edge could be on display in a museum of modern art.

Although the nonfunctional, ceramic platters on display are worth viewing, it is the functional pottery which makes American Pottery in the British Studio Tradition an exhibition to visit: it prompts the visitor to consider the tableware used in the humdrum of daily life.  There is deep appeal to potter Todd Piker’s philosophical point that there is an authenticity to “good pots made by production potters currently unknown, sold and used by other long forgotten people.”  I know I’m inspired to upgrade my tableware to include some handcrafted pieces. Other potters whose handcrafted work is on display include: Michael Barsanti, Marc Leuthold, Bruce Ostwald, Richard Shaw, and Miranda Thomas (FWB 4/5/11).

Farm to Table Dining at the Culinary Institute of America’s St. Andrew’s Café

Situated on 80 acres overlooking the Hudson River in Hyde Park (Dutchess County, NY), The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) has become arguably the world’s premier culinary college enrolling more than 2,800 students from virtually every U.S. state and 30 countries in its degree programs.  At its main campus in Hyde Park (the former Jesuit seminary St. Andrew-on-Hudson), the college operates five student-staffed restaurants.  One of the five, the St. Andrew’s Café (its name evoking the history of the college’s campus) caught my attention with its commitment to local foods.

The café’s menu describes its mission to embody “all that is good about the local, sustainable food movement,” and notes that “As much as possible, we draw our produce and meats from local farmers and purveyors.”  Being a part of the CIA’s educational experience by enjoying a farm to table meal, prepared and served by the college’s students at its St. Andrew’s Café, required some planning with reservations recommended by the college.  With the intention of meeting up at the café with friends, who would be driving north from New York City, while I drove south from Albany, I made a reservation several weeks in advance for lunch on the first day of April.  We also anticipated burning a few calories with a pleasant hike over the Hudson River Walkway [http://www.walkway.org/], a former train bridge that recently has been transformed into a pedestrian walkway over the river in Poughkeepsie, just south of the college’s campus, after indulging in a leisurely meal at the café.  Unfortunately, Mother Nature had a spring snowfall in store, or at least that was the forecast the day before our planned meal.  My friends decided not to risk the drive north into a snowstorm.  But when the day turned out to be rainy and not snowy, I decided to drive the 90 miles south from my home in Albany to Hyde Park.  A memorable meal, prepared and served by CIA’s culinary students, with an enthusiasm and pride that provided a lift to the spirits, as well as a deeply satisfying dining pleasure, made this drive in the rain a very wise decision.

Greeted by a friendly host, the reservation for three, which earlier in the day I had changed to solo dining, created no difficulty, and I was led to a comfortable table, with a professional and welcoming grace.  The café described as “casual, family-friendly,” nonetheless had an elegant air, with linen tablecloths, formal place settings, and attentive and friendly wait staff.  When a reservation is made at one of the college’s restaurants, a non-refundable deposit of $10.00 per diner is required.  With this knowledge that my lunch tab would be at least $30.00, I decided to explore a number of dishes and to begin with a glass of red wine.  The café’s wine list offers a choice of seven different wines by the glass, all of which commendably were fine New York State wines, with a choice of either a Hudson Valley, Long Island, or Finger Lakes region wine.  A glass of Whitecliff Winery’s gamay noir ($6.50), with its smooth and fruity flavor from Beaujolais grapes grown just west of the Hudson River in Gardiner (Ulster County), was light bodied and perfect for a lunchtime meal [http://www.whitecliffwine.com/].

With my glass of red wine in hand, the Meiller Farm Meatloaf ($12.00), with roasted garlic whipped RSK Farm potatoes, crispy onion rings, and herb gravy with Bulich Farm mushrooms was an easy choice to make for a main entrée.  With the pork and beef for the meatloaf from Meiller Farm in Pine Plains (Dutchess County), potatoes from RSK Farm in Prattsville (Greene County), and mushrooms from Bulich Farm in Catskill (Greene County), which has been operating its mushroom farm since 1945, this was locally sourced comfort food reflecting the agricultural bounty of New York’s Hudson River Valley.  With a hearty meat dish for an entrée, I decided to start my meal with two salads, a local green salad ($6.00) with Old Chatham Sheepherding Company’s “Shaker Blue” sheep milk cheese [http://www.blacksheepcheese.com/] and crunchy croutons, lightly dressed with Brother Victor’s Red Wine Vinaigrette made at the nearby Our Lady of the Resurrection Monastery in Lagrangeville (Dutchess County) based on a monastic recipe from the Middle Ages [http://ourladyoftheresurrectionmonastery.webs.com/monasticvinegars.htm], and an asparagus and roasted baby beet salad ($8.00) with marinated RSK Farm new potatoes, Toma Celena cheese, a nutty and rich Italian table cheese which is a creation of the Cooperstown Cheese Company and “named after the first person to sample it, love it, and buy the first wheel,” and a hearty helping of local greens, all lightly dressed with a mustard-shallot vinaigrette.  This remarkable salad was perfection, with a memorable blending of flavors and textures.  Nonetheless, it seemed unlikely, given the severe winter we’ve experienced in upstate New York this year, that the asparagus was local.  The waiter said he would check on the source of the asparagus, and to my surprise, Dwayne LiPuma, the St. Andrew’s Café Chef Instructor and an Assistant Professor at the college, appeared at my tableside in chef’s toque and explained that the asparagus was grown in California but plans were going forward to establish an asparagus bed on the grounds of the college this spring.  His commitment to sourcing the café’s produce locally was palpable.  Later, the attentive wait staff quietly commented to me that they have grown a deep appreciation for the “love” that Chef LiPuma brings to preparing food and to sharing his vast culinary knowledge with his students.

The meatloaf, served in the small iron skillet in which it was baked, was moist and flavorful with a perfect blending of pork, beef and herbs.  The mushroom herb gravy and crispy onion rings were perfect accompaniments to the hearty meat dish.  A basket of sour dough bread, with a crunchy crust and soft interior, was handy for soaking up the delicious gravy.  Although fully satisfied by the two salads and the generous serving of meatloaf, the café’s dessert menu was irresistible.  It offered a range of options with ingredients which are locally sourced from Hudson Valley farms located in Dutchess and Columbia counties, including warm Glorie Farm [www.gloriewine.com/ourfruitfarm.html] apple tart with honey thyme anglaise, Ronnybrook [www.Ronnybrook.com] butter pound cake with strawberry-rhubarb ice cream and strawberry compote, Coach Farm [www.CoachFarm.com] goat cheese cheesecake with local fruit and Hummingbird Ranch honey from nearby Staaatsburg (Dutchess County) [http://www.hummingbirdranch.biz/Honey.html], and my hard-to-make choice of two ice creams made from Hudson Valley Fresh [www.hudsonvalleyfresh.com] cream and raspberry sorbet ($5.00).  Hudson Valley Fresh is a not-for-profit dairy cooperative committed to sustainable agriculture with living wages for its farmers and their families (a group of 9 dairy farms located in Dutchess and Columbia counties which are within 20 miles of each other) and which processes all of its milk at Boice Brothers Dairy in Kingston (Ulster County).  This dessert of creamy, flavorful malted chocolate and vanilla bean ice creams and complimentary raspberry sorbet, served with nutty flavored crunchy cookies, was a perfect ending to a pleasurable meal.

If only the cold rain had stopped in order for me to burn off some calories with a hike over the Hudson River Walkway, my day trip to Hyde Park and the Culinary Institute of America’s St. Andrew’s Café would have felt less indulgent.  Next time I visit, I promise to hike twice as long on the Hudson River Walkway (FWB 4/4/11).

The tab included a 14% service charge with the following explanatory note: “A key component of the education process at the CIA is learning how to deliver outstanding service. Students at The Culinary Institute of America are not permitted to accept tips, in accordance with IRS regulations and the CIA Student Code of Conduct.  We thank you for honoring the ‘no tipping’ policy, and for giving our students the opportunity to serve you.”  [St. Andrew’s Cafe @ The Culinary Institute of America, Route 9 (1946 Campus Drive), 845.471.6608, Lunch: Mon-Fri (when classes in session) 11:30AM-1:00PM, Dinner: Mon-Fri (when classes in session) 6:00PM-8:30PM, www.ciachef.edu/restaurants/standrews/ ]
[Editor’s Note- St. Andrew’s Cafe has temporarily ceased operation with the Culinary Institute of America’s American Bounty focusing on the use of local Hudson Valley ingredients]

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