Archive for September 2010
Harvard Square's Henrietta's Table
I was early to meet some friends for lunch, and noticed a display of Chef Davis’s cookbook, Honest and Fresh, near the entry to the main dining room of the wonderful Henrietta’s Table in Cambridge, Massachusetts. The cookbook, with its beautiful cover photograph of a hearty breakfast in an iron skillet, was irresistible and on picking up a copy to glance over, it fell open to a recipe for sangria. It’s been years since my last glass of sangria, probably back in the 1970’s when I was in college (with the ability to imbibe legally since the drinking age was 18 in upstate New York back then). A half pitcher of sangria and some cheese and crackers made for a nice date. But this recipe caught my attention, with ingredients that included cranberry juice, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries and blueberries, presumably farm fresh and local. So when it came to order lunch, I found myself in the unusual situation of ordering a glass of sangria, surprising myself since I rarely, if ever, have alcohol with lunch and when I do, it’s a glass of red wine.
Sorry to say, the sangria was not the right choice, with too many ingredients for my palate, mixing light rum, white wine, cassis, a sparkling wine, orange juice, cranberry juice as well as the berries and sugar. But that was certainly my mistake for choosing a drink based on nostalgia since the ethos of Henrietta’s Table described by Chef Davis in his cookbook is simple: “Our main priority is the taste of the food, so we try not to put more than three or four ingredients on a plate.” The food we enjoyed for lunch demonstrated this admirable spirit with the flavors from the food itself prevailing in all their “honest and fresh” glory.
Henrietta’s Table offers daily lunch specials, and as a special starter for the day we shared perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes, seasoned lightly with Maine sea salt and pesto. The plate with its slices of yellow and red tomatoes accented by the green of the pesto and served with olive oil was a work of art and an excellent beginning. I would have been satisfied with a lunch consisting of these perfect tomato slices atop the warm, cranberry nut bread, which accompanied our lunches. Add a seasonal green salad, and life is good. Still, there was no turning away from my choice of one of the two special lunch entrées for the day, “Quiche of Roasted Local Vegetables and Neighborly Farms Colby Cheese, Side Salad.” My eye caught the use of Neighborly Farms of Vermont cheese since this Vermont artisinal cheese maker’s feta cheese is a favorite of mine. (My local food co-op, Honest Weight Food Co-op [www.hwfc.com], in my hometown of Albany, NY, carries Neighborly Farms of Vermont cheeses.) The egg flavor of the quiche was rich, with the perfect mixture of vegetables, including zucchini squash and a colorful purple broccoli, to add to the wonderful flavors of this comfort dish. Still, with my taste buds accustomed to Neighborly Farms feta cheese, I would have preferred the stronger taste of feta over the mild Colby cheese as an ingredient for the quiche.
The second special entrée of the day, “Pressed Organic Green Onion Cheddar and Native Organic Tomato Sandwich with Arugula Pesto and Side Salad” pleased our younger dining companion, who was impressed by the blending of flavors. This perfect preparation of a grilled cheese sandwich confirmed the fact that simple ingredients can produce a dining pleasure. The side salads served with the special entrees of the day were fresh seasonal greens perfectly dressed in a mild vinaigrette. The regular lunch menu of Henrietta’s Classics lists 16 entrees, including “Henrietta’s Chop Salad: Native Romaine Lettuce, Nueske’s Bacon, Hass Avocado, Smokehouse Turkey, Onion, Tomatoes and Blue Cheese Vinaigrette.” This was the healthy choice of a well-pleased dining companion, who required sustenance before returning to an afternoon’s work at the office.
We shared a dessert that was a chocolate lover’s dream: “Warm Taza Chocolate Skillet Cake with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream.” Taza is a chocolate maker based in nearby Somerville, Massachusetts. A small bean to bar chocolate maker, it uses exclusively organic and sustainable cacao from a small cooperative in the Dominican Republic and maintains direct relationships with growers to ensure fair wages and work practices [www.tazachocolate.com]. The melding of a moist, richly chocolate cake made with this very fine chocolate, served warm in the skillet with a topping of freshly made vanilla bean ice cream was the pleasurable ending to a wonderful lunch.
Henrietta’s Table is located in Harvard Square’s The Charles Hotel, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and provides a reason for the hotel’s guests to stick close-by for their dining. Nonetheless, with a separate entrance, Henrietta’s Table does not have the feel of a hotel dining room. Instead, it has the feeling of a farmhouse dining room, with its white walls and carefully hung photographs of farm crops and flowers. We were seated in a comfortable corner, which was graced by a remarkable array of sculptures of fruits and vegetables, including a bulb of garlic, a pear, and a squash. The friendly waiter explained that the sculptures were made by students at The Farm School in Athol (Worcester County), Massachusetts [www.farmschool.org/], who carved the sculptures from stones found on the farm. Henrietta’s Table has a partnership with The Farm School, which was started in 1989 with the goal of providing children the experience of farming. The school serves over 1,700 children each year in immersive, three-day programs and also offers a year-long farmer training program for adults and a full-time middle school. Henrietta’s Table hosts an annual fund-raising event, The Big Pig Gig, as a gift to the Farm School. We lunched for approximately $25 per person, which included a gratuity, a beverage and the sharing of a dessert (FWB 9/24/10). [Henrietta’s Table, One Bennett Street, Cambridge, MA,
617.661.5005, Breakfast: Mon-Fri 6:30AM-11:00AM, Sat 7:00AM-11:00AM, Sun 7:00AM-10:30AM,Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00PM-3:00PM, Sat 12:00PM-3:00PM, Brunch Buffet: Sun 12:30PM-3:00PM,Dinner: Mon-Sun: 5:30PM-10:00PM, www.henriettastable.com]
Maria Rodale’s Organic Manifesto
Maria Rodale’s grandfather, J.I. Rodale, founded the magazine, Organic Farming and Gardening in 1942, and her parents, Robert and Ardath Rodale, likewise championed organic agriculture. In their footsteps, Maria Rodale, an organic food activist, now challenges her readers in Organic Manifesto (Rodale, Inc. [distributed to the trade by Macmillan], New York, New York, 2010) to demand organic foods and to reject chemical farming. Ms. Rodale subtitles her book, How Organic Farming Can Heal Our Planet, Feed the World and Keep Us Safe, but her use of the term “manifesto” in the main title is what grabs our attention. She is not using this term ironically or playfully in the manner of the Organic Coffee Cartel, the seller of fair trade coffee, which uses the term “cartel” in an extremely ironic way. Rather, Maria Rodale’s Organic Manifesto constitutes a powerful and opinionated statement of what must be done in order to save humanity from a future of environmental degradation and disease, which will result from an economic and political model that supports “chemical farming” and rewards the destruction of our planet’s land, water, and air.
Ms. Rodale seeks to change the world, and in her opinion unless the principles of organic farming are adopted, the future of our planet is dire. In her wake-up call, she strives to prove her case and it is fair to say, she has succeeded in this passionate book in establishing the credibility of her claim that organic agriculture must replace chemical farming in order to regenerate the health of our planet. It is noted that the President’s Cancer Panel has recently submitted a landmark report, “Reducing Environmental Cancer Risk: What We Can Do Now” by Dr. La Salle Leffall, Jr and Dr. Margaret L. Kripke, which exhorts consumers to choose food grown without pesticides or chemical fertilizer and gives a boost to the contentions set forth in Organic Manifesto. The New York Times columnist, Nicholas Kristoff, who saw an advance copy of the report, summarized the findings in a recent column. The report is available for downloading on the website of the Collaborative on Health and the Environment. Perhaps the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) will now amend its rules for organic labeling and permit companies to make the claim that “organic is better for you,” as Ms. Rodale urges.
In a chapter on “chemical farming today,” Rodale sets forth what sounds like a post-apocalyptic science fiction story, yet, she explains, “All of this is happening right now.” In her words, “We must stop poisoning ourselves now. We must remove chemicals from the process of growing, harvesting and preserving food.” Pesticides are poisons manufactured to kill insects, rodents, fungi and weeds, but “Traces of all of these chemicals can be detected in virtually each and every one of us.” 60% of the fresh water in the United States is used for agricultural purposes, and the chemicals used in agriculture leach through the soil and into waterways and poison our drinking water, accounting for two-thirds of all water pollution. Chemical pesticides have been linked to cancer, cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and reproductive and developmental defects. The “safe level” set by the Environmental Protection Agency for arsenic which is used as a pesticide in chemical farming is 10 parts per billion (ppb), while levels range from 50-90 ppb in drinking water in many areas in the United States, and in some parts of Asia, the levels exceed 3000 ppb. Soil is a living thing: “just one tablespoon can contain up to 10 billion microbes” and it has been mistreated by chemical farming.
According to Ms. Rodale, more than 80,000 new chemical compounds have been introduced since World War II, with many used in agriculture: “There are 3,000 so-called high-production-volume chemicals, meaning that more than 1 million pounds of each are produced or imported in the United States each year,” including 4 billion pounds of organophosphate pesticides used annually in the United States. She suggests that there are no safe limits for these chemicals in the human body since “small doses of chemicals can be just as toxic.” Further, widespread use of antibiotics in raising animals for human consumption has led to drug resistant infections in children. The New York Times, in an editorial dated September 22, 2010, shares Ms. Rodale’s concern that 70% of all antibiotics sold in the United States goes to the animals we eat and calls for the USDA to make mandatory its guidelines that “agricultural producers use antibiotics only under veterinary supervision and only in cases of illness and emergency” and not allow their use “to speed up growth and to prevent the spread of disease in crowded conditions.” The litany of problems seems endless: methyl bromide, the fungicide used heavily on strawberries has a direct link to increased prostate cancer. Organophosphate pesticides are endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and Ms. Rodale suggests that, according to some medical opinions, the exposure to endocrine disrupters might be the cause of autism. More than 76 million pounds of atrazine, an endocrine disrupting chemical used as a pesticide, are applied in the United States each year, while it has been banned by the European Union since 2003. Thousands of drinking wells in the United States are contaminated with atrazine.
Turning from pesticides to weed killers, Ms Rodale focuses on Monsanto’s Roundup, the most widely used weed killer in America since 91% of all soybeans, 85% of all corn, and 88% of all cotton are grown from Monsanto’s Roundup Ready GMO (genetically modified organism) seeds. The active ingredient in Roundup, glyphosphate, “gets inside plants we eat and can’t wash off.” In sum, “the toxic chemicals we are using to grow food are destroying us.”
Organic Manifesto includes a very clear explanation of the nature of GMO seeds. They are not like the seeds farmers have used for 1000’s of years. Rather, they are seeds which have been genetically modified with the help of a bacterium, Escherichia coli or salmonella, in order to resist the herbicide, Roundup, which is used to keep fields weed-free: “These bacteria act as a kind of barrier for the DNA being transferred and they create antibiotics in the process.” The GMO seeds are protected by patents, and chemical farmers must buy new seeds from Monsanto each year. With this choice of GMO seed, farmers are thereby choosing the system of chemical farming over organic. Ms. Rodale’s description of the fascinating history of chemical farming dating back to John Bennet Lawe’s discovery of the first synthetic superphosphate fertilizer in 1842 to Monsanto’s development of Roundup and GMO seeds and bovine growth hormone is eye-opening.
Still, Organic Manifesto is ultimately a hopeful book, which provides a remedy. Choosing to eat organic foods is “not a fashion or lifestyle choice but a responsible health and environmental choice.” Organic agriculture, as defined by the USDA, is food grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, sewage sludge, irradiation, and seeds that have been genetically modified, and, for animals, without hormones or antibiotics. It focuses on “building soil and ecosystems that are healthier than when we began and able to heal the damage we have caused,” and is not merely “sustainable” agriculture (a term Ms. Rodale dislikes for its vagueness) but “regenerative” agriculture. Her book includes a detailed and useful description of the variety of practices and procedures of organic farming, including composting, use of cover crops, crop rotation and a diversity of crops to avoid “catastrophic problems,” turning farm waste into fertilizer, as well as the avoidance of tilling to control weeds. Instead, she prescribes the use of mulching techniques. She also provides a fascinating history of organic agriculture including reference to F. H. King’s Farmers of Forty Centuries published in 1911, which explored how China was able to grow highly productive crops on the same land for thousands of years by using human and animal fertilizer.
Ms. Rodale points to the results from the Farming Systems Trial (FST) Study begun by the Rodale Institute in 1981 to establish that organic farming is an efficient method of farming that provides better results than chemical farming. Although organic crop yields are comparable to chemical yields, in years of drought, organic farm yields are higher than those of chemical farms due to the stronger root systems of organic plants and better moisture retention in the soil. In flood situations, organic yields are also higher due to stronger root systems and organic soil’s ability to absorb more water and prevent runoff and erosion. Citing this study, Maria Rodale strongly rejects the fears stoked by chemical companies that to “feed the world” their poisonous chemicals and GMOs are needed in agriculture. For further support, she points to the work of the International Assessment of Agricultural Knowledge, Science and Technology for Development, funded by the World Bank and the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organization, and which included the participation of more than 400 scientists and 30 countries. This assessment of world agriculture resulted in recommendations which include “returning to more ‘natural’ and traditional farming methods (away from GMOs and chemicals).”
According to Ms. Rodale, “if all the cultivated land in the world were farmed organically,” it would “immediately reduce our climate crisis significantly.” Organic soil has significantly greater carbon and nitrogen storage capacity than that of chemically treated soil because desirable mycorrhizal fungi naturally occurs in organic soil and can absorb carbon from the air and store it in the soil for decades. Similarly, nitrogen stays in organic soil and is utilized by plants rather than running off and polluting ground water. Further, with labor inputs 15% higher in organic agriculture, jobs will be created. (In the early 1900s, 50% of all Americans worked on farms or ranches while today fewer than 1% of Americans work on farms.)
The Organic Manifesto coins the term “conscious capitalism” for a system of economics that makes positive change for the world and measures economic “strength” and not “growth.” Although Ms. Rodale believes organic farming will provide a way for small farms to continue to exist and earn a fair living, she offers praise for large companies like Stonyfield Farm, Earthbound Farms, Nature’s Path, Organic Valley, Cascadian Farm and Whole Foods which have the size to spread the message that food must be grown organically without the use of chemicals and GMOs. For example, Earthbound Farms which sells organic fruits and vegetables grown on 33,000 acres of California farmland “kept 10.5 million pounds of chemical fertilizers and 305,000 pounds of chemical pesticides out of the environment and saved 1.7 million gallons of petroleum.” To her list, she should also consider including Chipotle Mexican Grill, which is transforming the American concept of “fast food,” inexpensive, standardized food items served quickly, by its concern for the integrity of its food and the use of ingredients “raised with respect for the animals, the environment and the farmers” including meat from animals raised without the use of antibiotic or added hormones and “organic and local produce” and “dairy from cows raised without the use of synthetic hormones.”
No doubt the current statistics are sobering; “Chemical farms are in production on about 930 million acres in the United States and 3.8 billion acres globally.” In contrast, with 13,000 certified organic farmers in America, and a few thousand more who are organic but uncertified, organic farming practices are in use on only 4 million acres in the United States and 30.4 million acres globally. Still, with even the CEO of Monsanto, Hugh Grant, choosing to eat organic food according to Ms. Rodale [Kai Ryssdal, “Using Technology to Grow More Food,” interview with Monsanto CEO Hugh Grant, Marketplace, America Public Media, August 20, 2008], and the additional 108,000 small farmers who have just started farming in the last 5 years, there is hope that this statistical breakdown of acres of chemical farms in production verses organic farms in production may change for the better, hopefully much sooner than later for the future of our planet (FWB 9/18/10).
Mouzon House in Saratoga Springs, NY
The longest Saratoga meet of 40 days (instead of the 36 days of the past few years) has come to an end, with only a modest dip in the overall on-track handle to $104,610,307 from last year’s $112,005,878, and overall attendance this summer reaching a respectable 878,284 in the small city of Saratoga Springs, NY, year-round population of just under 30,000. Although the fabled thoroughbred racetrack has gone dark, the dining scene in downtown Saratoga Springs remains lively- including a full house on Saturday night at Mouzon House Restaurant, which proudly displays on the top of its menu, which changes nearly daily, the inviting words, “A farm to table restaurant.”
The Mouzon House restaurant occupies a restored Victorian home, previously owned by the Mouzon family for nearly 100 years. It sits conveniently next to the site of the Saratoga Springs Farmers Market, which provides an easy source for much of the food served. We were led to a table on the second story of the fine old house, and comfortably seated in an outdoor, covered terrace which looked down on a busy bar scene and the gardens at the front of the restaurant, which are landscaped with a beautiful stone wall. Nonetheless, the dining areas on the first floor are more appealing, with their cozier feel and more elegant setting in warmly decorated rooms of the old house. Colorful murals of elegantly dressed beauties, painted by the family of chef David Pedinotti, create an artistic atmosphere. On our next visit, we’ll be sure to request a table downstairs.
Our friendly waitress showed evident pride in the way Mouzon House sources its food. Unfortunately, the only “local” wine, a riesling from Dr. Konstantin Frank’s vineyard in the Finger Lakes, NY region was not available by the glass. Nonetheless, our very fine meal in a unique setting was one to bring us back.
We shared a tasty bruschetta trio of an assortment of local produce served over toasted homemade bread. A basket of warm homemade bread accompanied our house salads consisting of New Minglewood Farm greens gently tossed in a red wine vinaigrette with flavorful accents of Liza Porter’s blue cheese from Longview Farm in Argyle (Washington County, NY). Mention must be made of the perfectly ripe tomatoes and the freshest cucumbers included in the salad. I have often enjoyed ripe and freshly picked tomatoes from my home garden, and these were equal to those, but the cucumber was an eye-opener, and prompts me to plant a row next summer. Fresh, local sweet butter on a slice of warm homemade bread was simply a dining pleasure.
Some of the options for appetizers, including crayfish beignets, described as savory New Orleans pastries made with tender crayfish deep fried to a golden brown and served with garlic aioli and a shrimp cocktail, described as 4 jumbo shrimp with a spicy and sweet dipping sauce, gave a hint of what we were to enjoy as entrees. My homemade pasta, served with a bolognese sauce made with local lamb and beef, was spiced with hot peppers and demonstrated the kitchen’s love of creole and cajun cooking. One of my dining companion’s chicken jambalaya, made with local, free-range, hormone and chemical free chicken, also had some creole spiciness. After some consideration, my other dining companion decided on an entree of swordfish served over a caesar salad of fresh local greens. A generous swordfish steak was nicely spiced and would make for a wonderful leftover meal the following day as well. Before deciding on the swordfish, our waitress explained that fish and seafood was purchased thoughtfully by the restaurant and with great concern for the environment and that the swordfish was line-caught. Later that evening I researched the fishing of swordfish and was reassured in discovering that the world’s pool of swordfish had improved [ca-seafood.ucdavis.edu/news/swftruth.htm].
We shared for dessert a raspberry, blackberry and strawberry shortcake, which was lightly iced with a sweet creamy cheese. Knowing the berries were local and fresh gave us added pleasure and explained its deliciousness. In addition to enjoying a wonderful meal with friends, I discovered that the mother of my close friend of thirty years, used to play the mandolin. This memory was prompted by the tuneful Ashokan Farewell performed by Timmy and Larry, two strolling musicians, who played their respective mandolin and acoustic guitar with great skill and added to the festive, yet elegant ambiance. Their music always accented the dining pleasures and never overwhelmed, with lively dinner conversation always easily enjoyed. And I hope my friend locates his mom’s mandolin and starts up lessons before too long! We dined for $55.00 per person, which included a glass of wine or cocktail plus gratuity (FWB 9/12/10). [Mouzon House, 1 York Street, Saratoga Springs, NY, 518.226.0014, Dinner: Weds-Thurs 5:00PM-10:00PM, Fri-Sat 5:00PM-11:00PM]
Russian Banana Fingerling Potatoes And Black-Eyed Peas
Russian Banana Fingerling Potatoes and Black-Eyed Peas-
Perhaps potatoes and beans don’t go together as easily as a horse and carriage or more on point, rice and beans. Still, combining local and organic Russian banana fingerling potatoes with delicious and easy to cook black-eyed peas makes for a hearty meal. Using “banana” to describe these fingerlings is slightly misleading since they are small in size, though with a banana shape and their yellowish color, the term is fitting. With their firm texture, they’re a great tasting potato. Developed in Russia and the Baltic Region, they’ve acquired the descriptive “Russian banana” nomenclature given their shape and origin. Served with a seasonal salad of fresh local Boston lettuce grown by the same local, organic farm, Slack Hollow Farm of Argyle (Washington County), NY [www.slackhollowfarm.com/about.htm], which was the source of the potatoes, an early fall meal was readied for the appetites of good friends who maintain a vegetarian diet. This meal was especially appealing since the food used was all organically grown, and with the organic fingerling potatoes priced at $2.99 per pound and the organic black eyed peas on sale at my local food coop at $1.49 per pound, a very economical meal as well.
Black-eyed peas have a thinner skin than most beans, and cook up easily and do not require soaking, though I like to soak them for a couple of hours before cooking which ensures a very tender bean. The cowpea is the fresh bean from which the black-eyed pea is derived. Edible, the wonderful guide to the world’s food plants, describes the origins of the cowpea: “[D]omesticated in West Africa around 3000 BCE. It reached India at some point after 1500 BCE and also taken to Southeast Asia. In the sixteenth century, the Spanish and Portuguese carried cowpeas to the New World. . . . [A] hot-climate plant…currently grown in Africa, Central and South America, Southeast Asia, and the southern United States” (Edible, An Illustrated Guide to the World’s Food Plants, Washington, D.C.: National Geographic Society, 2008, www.nationalgeographic.com/books).
The black-eyed peas are prepared before cooking the potatoes. When the potatoes are nearly tender (after cooking them in olive oil in a pan on the top of the oven), they are added to the black-eyed peas and pick up the flavors from the sweet onions, garlic, fresh celery leaves, and red pepper used in the preparation of the black-eyed peas. The celery leaves and garlic are from my home garden, and the garlic which was harvested about a month ago remains juicy and fresh. The celery which remains growing in the garden has been the source of delicious leaves which I’ve used throughout the summer for seasoning dishes. The wonderful produce department at my local food coop, the Honest Weight [www.hwfc.com], was the source of the fingerling potatoes as well as a very special organic onion, also grown by Slack Hollow Farm, known as an Ailsa Craig onion ($1.29 per pound), named after an island off the coast of Scotland from which they were introduced into America in 1887 (according to the sign at the food co-op which included a drawing of a steep-cliff island of an artistic worker in the produce department).
Black-Eyed Peas
1/2 cup black eyed peas
1 garlic bulb
1 good-sized Ailsa Craig onion (or other sweet onion)
olive oil
1 cup water
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper
10 celery leaves
Rinse 1/2 cup of dried black eyed peas and place in bowl and cover with water. Soak for 2 hours. Peel and dice one garlic bulb and one good-sized Ailsa Craig onion. Cover bottom of a medium sized pot with olive oil and heat the oil over low to medium heat. [I use Napa Valley Naturals organic olive oil, www.napavalleytrading.com. According to the bottle, this extra virgin and organic, first cold pressing, olive oil was “from California’s Sacramento Valley and Argentina’s Cordoba Valley.” I had purchased the olive oil on sale at the local food co-op for $9.99. The 25.4 ounce bottle, which is regularly priced at $15.99 at the co-op, was a nice bargain at the sale price.] Add garlic and onion and stir. Cook until soft (approximately 10 minutes). Rinse the black-eyed peas, which have been soaked, and add them to the pot with one cup of water. Add 1 tablespoon of crushed red pepper, chopped celery leaves and stir. [The tablespoon of Simply Organic crushed red pepper, www.simplyorganicfoods.com which I use, adds some spicy heat. I like to keep a bottle of crushed red pepper in the cupboard and wait until it goes on sale at the food coop- regularly priced at $4.09, it was a bargain on sale at $2.49.] Cook until black-eyed peas are tender, approximately 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding additional water if necessary.
Russian Banana Fingerling Potatoes
Rinse 8-10 Russian banana fingerling potatoes. Slice into quarters lengthwise. Cover bottom of a large skillet with olive oil and heat, over low to medium heat. Add sliced potatoes, and cook undisturbed over low to medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir potatoes, and cook for 15 more minutes, turning potatoes to cook all sides, without stirring too often. If necessary, lower heat to avoid scorching. When tender, add potatoes to pot of black-eyed peas.
Cook black-eyed peas and potatoes together over low heat for approximately 10 more minutes to meld the beans and potatoes. Yields approximately 4 hearty servings. Enjoy. (FWB 9/11/10)
A Garden Grows At Upstate New York's Colgate University
The first seeds of an idea for a garden at Colgate were planted in February 2001, when Heather Schoen ’02 did an Environmental Studies project that described the successes of student-run gardens at 12 other colleges and universities, and outlined a plan to start a student organization called “Green Thumbs,” focused on promoting local, sustainable agriculture at Colgate. According to Schoen’s vision, the initial goal of Green Thumbs would be to educate both the Colgate and Hamilton, NY communities about sustainable agriculture, and to build a relationship between students and local farmers whereby students could learn about organic farming through volunteering. The ultimate goal of promoting local, sustainable food sources pointed to the establishment of Colgate’s own organic vegetable garden.
Green Thumbs came to life as an official Colgate University student group in Fall ’08, when co-presidents Emily Sabo ’11 and Will Cushman ’11, together with faculty advisor, Sociology Professor Chris Henke, who teaches a popular course at Colgate on Food, began researching how to turn the garden into a reality. The information, contacts, and decisions they made were utilized in Fall ’09 by Meg Cronin, Teddi Hoffman, Kate Pavelich, and Maria Kryachko (all Class of ‘10) to develop a 44-page garden proposal for “Interdisciplinary Investigations in Environmental Issues,” a class co-taught by Colgate Sustainability Coordinator John Pumilio. This proposal detailed, among other things, the site options, layout, crops, intended uses of produce, publicity, budget, and management of the garden.
With the decision of the Colgate University Class of 2010 Senior Gift Committee to donate their entire gift to the Sustainability Council, and after much controversy, the Council agreed to give that money to the Green Thumbs garden, making a reality of Ms. Schoen’s idea. With this financial backing, Green Thumbs was able to hire two student interns – Rob Jeffrey ‘12 and Stacey Marion ’11 – to get started on the garden this summer.
The garden’s ground-breaking took place this past summer on June 2nd. From that point on, the layout and planting of the garden has been in the capable hands of Rob Jeffrey and Stacey Marion. Jeffrey, an active member of Green Thumbs, and Marion, an outdoors-lover with an interest in agriculture and experience in farm work, have been excited about the project since the day they signed on. They both enjoy the amount of freedom they have when it comes to making decisions about the garden. As Marion says, although “[M]uch research had been done on the feasibility of the garden by the Green Thumbs, the farming decisions of the garden were left to us.” While the garden is fully student-run, Green Thumbs put together an advisory committee and hired a consultant so that Marion and Jeffrey would have some guidance in the process of building a garden from the ground up. Selected by Jeffrey and Marion, consultant Stacey Nagle is an avid gardener in Cazenovia, NY and helps at the Colgate garden 10-12 hours a week. The advisory committee, composed of Green Thumbs’ president, interns, Colgate faculty and staff, and local farmers, was involved in decisions regarding layout, fencing, tool shed, and irrigation, but Jeffrey and Marion were responsible for bringing options to the table.
The first vegetables to go in the ground were squash, cucumbers, broccoli, eggplant, peppers, and a couple rows of tomatoes. Next came the hot peppers, carrots, corn, radishes, and chives. These plants were either purchased or generously donated by local Community Supported Agricultures (CSAs), including Common Thread. Local CSAs and farms have also helped by providing advice on issues such as irrigation and fencing. As Jeffrey and Marion say in the Colgate Garden Blog (http://colgategarden.blogspot.com/), “We have received great support from the local agricultural community, and are forming friendships with many local farmers.” This community-building aspect of the garden is exciting, especially because it is exactly what was envisioned by Heather Schoen, the original founder of Green Thumbs.
Thanks to the hard work and organization of Jeffrey and Marion, the half acre plot of ground on College St., just a stone’s throw from Colgate’s Andy Kerr football stadium, has been transformed from a grassy field to a fertile garden. So far, Jeffrey and Marion have been selling the garden’s produce to Sodexo, Inc. (the provider of Colgate’s dining services) through Purdy and Sons, the company in charge of Sodexo’s local purchases. According to Sodexo, it cannot use produce from the garden in Colgate’s main dining facility, Frank Dining Hall, because the amount of harvested produce would not be enough to make a whole dish and it would not be able to “advertise” the dish as being “from the Colgate Community Garden.” Instead, Sodexo will use the garden’s bounty for “local” meals in The Coop and The Edge (smaller, alternate dining locations at Colgate), and for catered events, such as dinners with Lyle Roelofs (provost and dean of faculty), and with Colgate’s president, Jeffrey Herbst. The garden will also have a stand where they will sell vegetables directly to students, targeting those students who live in off-campus housing where they can cook their own meals. The garden will be maintained during the school year by volunteers, who will also get shares of the produce.
On its website, Sodexo, Inc. describes itself as “a recognized leader in global sustainability” and has adopted “The Better Tomorrow Plan,” which lists 14 “commitments” including its #5, “We will source local, seasonal or sustainably grown and raised products.” This commitment provides further as follows: “Agriculture demands significant environmental inputs and has serious impacts on the environment, consuming a large percentage of the world’s water, producing a large share of greenhouse gas emissions, and employing a large share of the earths population. Food is a critical component of our business and a starting point for where we add value for many of our clients. It’s a visible and tangible expression of our values and represents the largest portion of our environmental and social impact. Sourcing from more sustainable sources helps ensure our ability to produce affordable, healthy and abundant food well into the future [emphasis added].”
It is the hope of many Colgate people that the garden will continue to grow until, one day, it can be used regularly in Frank Dining Hall, Colgate’s main dining facility, and Sodexo will honor its commitment to local, sustainable foods in the clearest way possible: using food grown organically in Colgate’s own garden as a significant source of the food served in the main dining hall (Kiera Crowley, Colgate ’13).